Warehouse - Dubbleworks - Heller's Cafe - Duckdigger

Discussion in 'Japanese Denim Brands' started by FOXY, Jun 29, 2011.

  1. FOXY Member

    FOXY

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  2. FOXY Member

    FOXY

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    let me start with a pretty recent pair from their Heller's Cafe Range (x-post from ...last purchase thread):

    Heller's Cafe HC-035 (raw, non-wash):
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    it's a 10oz. denim and soaking right now...
     
  3. FOXY Member

    FOXY

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    here, some more infor on my Warehouse purchase - apparently this is a replica of a Dry Goods Company model:

    HC-035 Nonpareil waist over all

    西海岸で最も古いドライグッズカンパニーのプライベートブランドであった「ノンパレイル」=「無比の物、逸品の意味」をモデルとしたこのパンツは、1851年に創業し、1860年代には既にデニムのワークウェアを製造していたといわれる幻のブランドです。
    1871年にあの岩倉具視の「使節団」もサンフランシスコのこのドライグッズカンパニーを視察しています。
    ユニークなポケットのカッティングや補強のステッチは、「装飾」と「機能性」を併せ持つ高いレベルの技術が必要とされるディテールです。

    7×10 右綾ミドルオンスデニム

    Dry Goods Company was the oldest private brand on the West Coast, "nonpareil" = "an unparalleled sense of gem" is modeled after the pants, founded in 1851 and 1860 is already a denim workwear the brand vision is said to have been produced.
    Tomomi Iwakura in 1871 that the "mission" has been visited this company's San Francisco dry goods.
    Reinforced stitching on the pocket and unique cutting, "decoration" and "functional" is the detail that requires a high level of technology that combines.

    7 × 10-ounce denim twill Middle right
     
  4. FOXY Member

    FOXY

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    measurements in inches - pre/post hot soaking

    waist: 34.75 - 35" / 33.25"
    FR: 12.5" / 11.25 - 11.5"
    BR: 15.75" / 15.5"
    thighs: 12.75" / 12.5"
    knee: 9.5" / 9.25"
    hem: 8.75 - 9" / 8.75"
    inseam: 35.25" / 33"
    side seam: 46" / 43.5"
     
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2011
  5. FOXY Member

    FOXY

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    some more details
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    fit pics to follow...
     
  6. beautiful_FrEaK Active Member

    beautiful_FrEaK

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    thx for the pics and info FOXY!
    We already had a Warehouse thread. It was first done for the 1000XX and 1001XX denim I think. Maybe we can rename it and merge it with your thread?
     
  7. FOXY Member

    FOXY

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    very interesting details:
    single needle seams, no overlocked edges (not authentic for the time period), fly front construction in a single panel (tailoring), crotch construction with re-enforcement, high waist/high rise, nice buttons and rivets, etc.

    the denim is light weight - probably very authentic for this period - around 10oz
    denim i supposed to be from Cone using Memphis cotton, but this needs to be verified.
     
  8. FOXY Member

    FOXY

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    merging would be good - thread should be more generic...
     
  9. FOXY Member

    FOXY

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    Saw pictures of Warehouse x Arrows collaboration in Lightning No.8 the other day - it's a 1001XX with buttons and rivets done by Arrows in silver (hence the price) plus special patch and arcs.

    If it wasn't for the fact that the 1001 isn't my cut I would so go for it, despite price and patch (only soso IMO).
     
  10. IIIrd Icon New Member

    IIIrd Icon

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    WH 1000XX/1001XX are '47 repros. :confused: 'thought you liked that cut__ didn't you just ordered an SC 40400?
     
    Last edited: Jul 5, 2011
  11. FOXY Member

    FOXY

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    You are right - but, I ordered the SC40400 foremost because of the denim and indigo.
    I think even my JMcC901 is a similar cut - but somehow the WH1001XX (raw) felt too wide for my liking.

    Maybe I will give WH1000XX another try in the near future, but I should look out for different cuts...
     
  12. IIIrd Icon New Member

    IIIrd Icon

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    eyeing for other cuts is your prerogative, of course__ also, it gives your collection more adaptable to your needs & whims ;-)
     
  13. beautiful_FrEaK Active Member

    beautiful_FrEaK

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    you could take the WH800 which is slimemr but uses some nice 1001XX denim, IIRC
     
  14. FOXY Member

    FOXY

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    Here is the latest Lee (Archive) x Warehouse model:
    Lee x Warehouse 101 1930's Cowboy "Triple Name"

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    Too many details...will take more pictures after hot soak.

    Lee Archives/Warehouse Lee 101 (1930 Cowboy "Triple Name") W31
    Waist 34"
    Front Rise 12"
    Back Rise 16"
    Inseam 37.75"
    Thighs 13"
    Knee 9.75"
    Leg Opening 9"

    Rise is extremely high - Cowboy style...
     
  15. beautiful_FrEaK Active Member

    beautiful_FrEaK

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    really high! and they run biiiiig. Should be sanforized, right?
    The denim has a cool grey cast, hairy and white knots looking out. More irregular than I've thought :)
     
  16. Rotbart Member

    Rotbart

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    Yeah, thought that, too! Very nice structure, I like hairy denim. In direct sunlight my warehouse from hollabia is very fuzzy, so is this typical for warehouse (and collabs, of course)?
     
  17. FOXY Member

    FOXY

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    I think this denim is different to most other WH I have seen so far - but I will try to check/verify...
    regarding sanforized or not: I believe it is not, tomorrow's measurements will give an indication. I wouldn't be surprised to find out that the label inside the jeans saying "sanforized" is only there because it is in the 1930's blueprint...
     
  18. FOXY Member

    FOXY

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    Here are the post soak measurements:

    Lee Archives/Warehouse Lee 101 (1930 Cowboy "Triple Name") W31
    Waist 34" / 33" (not stretched while drying, should stretch a bit)
    Front Rise 12. / 11.75"
    Back Rise 16" / 15.25"
    Inseam 37.75. / 35"
    Thighs 13. / 12.5"
    Knee 9.75" / 9.5"
    Leg Opening 9. / 8.75"

    I would guess the denim is not sanforized...

    Regarding the denim itself, here are shots comparing them to Heller's Cafe HC-035 W31 "Non Pareil":

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    The Lee denim appears to be slightly heavier - can't find any data.
     
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2012
  19. beautiful_FrEaK Active Member

    beautiful_FrEaK

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    yeah tose figures show a small amount of shrinkage...more what sanforized denim should shrink. and a real wash would probably shrink them more...so...you were right :)
     
  20. FOXY Member

    FOXY

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    Here we go...
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    One cuff - two cuff, a bit tight in the waist - it should stretch a little back once I'll start breaking them in


    Here in a more contemporary setting...
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