Sewing / Tailoring / Denim Repair Thread

Discussion in 'Denim Care' started by ralf, Apr 28, 2009.

  1. ralf New Member

    ralf

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    I make all repairs and alterations myself and since that was fun i decided to try making clothes myself.

    Currently working on a cotton duck jacket that will be finished probably.... not soon. I have made a pattern and a prototype that i am working on trying to get the fit and style i want. If you have seen the post overalls el ranchero thats pretty close to what im working with.
    Ordered samples of fabrics and i will use a very heavy cotton duck. The heaviest sample i got was so stiff and thick that i doubt you could ever wear a garment constructed by it. It was sooooooooooo nice.....

    Ive worked with leather before so eventually i will start making a new wallet. As can be seen in the evolution of leather goods, i really need a new one.

    and a thousand repair projects... etc..

    anyone else?
     
  2. caid New Member

    caid

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    I just picked up a used sewing machine (an old Singer 8019) just so I could learn to do some minor alterations and repairs on my own. I've never sewn before so I have a long way to go before I could even think of making something.

    I'd like to see how you go about making the jacket though if you don't mind posting some pictures along the way.
     
  3. ralf New Member

    ralf

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    Caid: I recommend getting the instruction manual for the machine, googling instructional videos on how to get clean hems, strong seams etc and talking to mothers and grandmothers. The basics i learned in school but patternmaking and making actual garments is way, way above my skill. So im hoping to learn a lot not expecting the jacket to be perfect.

    I can post pictures and descriptions along the way. any special technique you want to see?

    This is my plan anyhow:

    1: Find ready made pattern for jacket/coat to work from.
    2: sew a prototype out of that pattern in cheap material.
    3: Modify that prototype to how i want my jacket to look and fit
    4: use now modifyed prototype as pattern for actual jacket

    Im now in stage 3.

    Lessons learned:

    Get a rolling knife and a mat to cut fabric tracing the pattern. Cutting with scissors might be OK but it didnt work well for me, hard to cut through two layers evenly, hard not to stretch the fabric around while cutting and so on.
    Match thread and needle. For me using heavy materials "denim needles" work fine.
    Before starting a bigger project, get the sewing machine thoroughly serviced either yourself or by proffessional. Also use appropriate machine. I started off with a weak machine not serviced at all meaning that i have worked through all curse words i know and invented a few more.

    pictures coming up soon
     
  4. xxhalcyonxx New Member

    xxhalcyonxx

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    I do sew, not with a sewing machine though. I just started sewing (for the first time) my denim jeans with cross-stich skill which I picked up in primary school.
     
  5. deadendpro Member

    deadendpro

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    I sew all of my tears or broken threads with black thread. No matter the color of my jeans, i use black.. hahaha, i like it alot. tis fun to do, but i had to do a small repair to a tear in the back of my 710's and it was TOO DAMN TIGHT to go all the way in the back pocket with the needle and thread, so i went to another person i can always turn to (my grandmother) to show me the best way to do it. lol. :cool:
     
  6. Durden New Member

    Durden

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    i have a cheap janome (<$100) that i sew with. a couple years ago, i tried my hand at jeans. figured out how to do it, but making a pair from scratch took like the whole day and my thread wasn't that strong so a ton of assrips. recently i've been trying to make casual button-ups and tees. i got to say, no going so well. haha. the hardest part of a plain tee is the neck opening, can never get it down. now, i just keep it around for repairs, hems, all the small stuff. having basic sewing skills and a cheap machine around is very, very handy.
     
  7. ralf New Member

    ralf

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    deadendpro; grandmothers usually come in handy when sewing ;D

    TylerDurden: does it get "crinkled" in the neck opening? if i understand you correctly... the part thats the collar gets all messed up?
     
  8. ralf New Member

    ralf

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    caid heres a picture for ya. In the picture im working with the pattern pieces in paper... im trying to line them up on the fabric i ended up making the prototype out of. As you can see, some of the patternpaper isnt cut out entirely so this is probaly me in a state of philosophy more than tailoring :D

    wearing lvc 47, a dirty wifebeater and a hell of a potbelly.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. deadendpro Member

    deadendpro

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    Hell yeah they do!!!!
    but i really enjoy feeling a potential crotch rip, because it lets me know 2 things:
    1) if i sew it, it will not rip
    and
    2) if i sew enough of them, they are sure not to go BOOM and explode.
    it was kinda tough sewing through my Samurais the first time though, 19oz is no joke. :-?
     
  10. caid New Member

    caid

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    Much appreciated Ralf. Right now I am not even certain about special techniques that I would like to see, as I don't know any!

    I haven't had much of a chance to play around with the sewing machine yet due to work, but when I do get around to it I would like to figure out how to do minor alterations like tailoring shirts, fixing crotch rips, things of that nature. Once I do get a chance to mess around I will be sure to post any questions and observations in this thread. In the mean time I do appreciate the photo you have up and hope to see more.

    Cheers!
     
  11. ralf New Member

    ralf

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    deadendpro: And i like the feeling of being able to do shit oneself instead of having someone else to rely on...
    I have gone so cheap over the years but if i would spend serious cash on denim again i would probably buy heavy oz samurais if i were to find a cut i like.
    Try turning the wheel by hand when going through the thickest part. Walking presser foot helps feeding and if not available try rolling presser foot. Switch needle often, if its just slightly bent that will cause trouble. Sometimes a duller needle works, sometimes sharp. if sharp needle works best switch all the freaking time since they get dull VERY quickly when sewing denim especially if its not washed clean. Use quality needles only. You probably got the hang of it but this might be useful tips for anyone.

    caid: ok I will search through cameras and computers.
    I can show you fixing crotch rips and other denim repair, just did my brothers average joes, my shrink to fits and some other stuff.
    You go rev up that sewing machine pronto! :)

    In other news the jacket project has come to an halt. Having trouble deciding fabric and im moving. So i wont have time and space... I noticed that the sewing machine could take as much of the heaviest canvas as you could possibly stuff under the presser foot and im tempted to go with that fabric.. However it might look redicioulous.. aaah i cant decide. Heavy- or extremely Heavy weight fabric..? hmmm
     
  12. deadendpro Member

    deadendpro

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    ^ i've never needed to make a repair using a sewing machine, its all been by hand. Thats why i was saying it was a tad bit difficult to get through the heavy denim. but i switched to a thicker needle and its been working like a charm ever since; but good advice man, thanks.
     
  13. IIIrd Icon New Member

    IIIrd Icon

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    some crotch, pocket, hole fixes.
    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2009
  14. IIIrd Icon New Member

    IIIrd Icon

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    Repair & Maintenace

    *invisible stitch [w/o patch]: reinforcing the fraying weft by inserting thread/stitch under & through the weave... more difficult and time consuming.

    [​IMG]


    General Patching Instruction : 1) prep patch by manually serging the edges [to prevent from fraying] :: 2) stitch behind/under the fabric. try making short stitch lenght [in between weaves] on the outside & use light grey thread [preferably 100% cotton] cuz it blends in [less conspicuous].

    [​IMG]



    **crotch repair : it depends on the extent of the fix. if fabric is still intact, but thinning/fraying, patch under as it'd look cleaner on the outside. if you got a gaping hole, does not matter if you patch over or under. just make sure to cover all [compromised] areas, so you don't need to redo.

    in your case, you need a bigger swatch to cover both sides. [black dots to show stitchway].
    [​IMG]

    ***here's a combination of patching over & under:
    [​IMG][/QUOTE]
     
  15. IIIrd Icon New Member

    IIIrd Icon

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    Retouching Crease Folds

    mix a small amount of RIT "Denim Blue" in a small cup of hot water. test first on a denim swatch to see if you got the right shade using a painting brush to apply. if shade is right, proceed.

    you don't have to fill in the crease marks like you do a coloring book. you just need to lightly daub w/brush to break the linear pattern. test it on a small less conspicuous area, if in doubt , so you don't ruin your jeans.

    edit : oops! forgot to mention to add a pinch of salt to the dye solution. if doing a [ still ] dark indigo denim, double up the concentration by dilluting w/less hot water... remember : to just daub. don't saturate so it it does not blotch. also, you want most of the dye to run off and the remaining, to fade/blend in after wash__ not stay fast.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Feb 5, 2010
  16. iwannudies New Member

    iwannudies

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    Great post IIIrd, I'll use this as a guide for my next crotch repair :)
     
  17. IIIrd Icon New Member

    IIIrd Icon

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    Re-touching Hems

    preferably, have the hems retouched after a wash or 2 to establish the "roping" pattern [ w/ peaks & valleys ], which you can, then follow to fill in with dye. this would make for a more natural crease fade :: follow same procedure as above post.

    idea seemed laughably crude & somewhat idiotic, but post-wash result from a re-hemmed s500 [ 3rd pic ] speaks for itself :

    [​IMG]



     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2010
  18. IIIrd Icon New Member

    IIIrd Icon

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    Preventive Reinforcement

    btw, tnx iwannudies!


    i've already posted this in some threads, but i'm Xposting it here cuz it makes more sense + easier to reference :

    [​IMG]
    reinforcing thread on the [ wallet side ] pocket

    [​IMG]
    common thread breakage around the curve part of the front pocket

    [​IMG]
    stealth reinforement stitch on crotch area
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2010
  19. beautiful_FrEaK Active Member

    beautiful_FrEaK

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    thank you very much. it's great to have all of this in one thread!
     
  20. Spiraltoy New Member

    Spiraltoy

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    This thread is lovely.
    Thanks for all the good work guys.
     

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